Sustainable Landscaping has proven significant economic, health and environmental benefits. My design firm has adopted an ecological approach to landscaping and is committed to developing sustainable design and installation methods for renovations and/or new landscapes by utilizing the five principles of sustainability i.e., functional, maintainable, environmentally sound, cost effective, and visually pleasing.

IMPACT OF TRADITIONAL LANDSCAPING

• Creates air, noise, water pollution
• Promotes flood damage/erosion
• Harmful to biodiversity
• Excessive consumption of natural resources
• Negative effects on public health and safety
• Costly and labor intensive
• Lacks variety

SUSTAINABLE LANDSCAPING PRINCIPLES

• Reducing or preventing pollution
• Conserving natural resources like labor, water, fertilizers etc.
• Maximizing ecological functions to enhance wild life habitat, organic food, family fun
• Attractive naturalistic landscapes with low water requiring & low-maintenance plants to save water and time
• Recycle and reuse landscape materials wherever possible
• Avoid using toxic chemicals if possible, reducing exposure to injury, and preventing toxic run-off to storm drains and water bodies
• Grass cycling, composting and mulching to enhance the soil structure
• Proper watering, fertilizing, and pruning along with Integrated Pest Management

Debby Evans Garden Design supports and promotes proactive ecological change. We strive to reduce the negative environmental impacts of landscaping work and make sure that our actions are consistent with our philosophy. We follow the following standards and practices wherever it is practical to do so while installing your project, unless you choose different methods. If traditional methods are counter-productive,we can counsel you about alternate sustainable methods. While supporting and promoting proactive ecological change, there are times when the negative impacts are unavoidable. When this is a possibility, we will make every effort to reduce the effects.

Below are the standards we hold to.  Please read them. We welcome your suggestions for any improvement.

SUSTAINABLE STANDARDS

Site Materials We try to obtain paving stone and boulders from responsible sources. We try not to use harvested materials from intact natural ecosystems. We do not obtain soil from natural areas. To our knowledge, we ensure that our suppliers are environmentally conscious and protect the earth against erosion and other environmental damage in the course of their operations, and that the product is free of toxins and non-degradable waste.

Lumber & Salvaged Materials We try to use certified sustainably harvested lumber and wood products exclusively when they are available. Advise if certified materials will not be used for part or for the entire project. We counsel our clients about alternatives such as recycled plastic lumber, Trex, salvaged lumber or wood harvested from urban forests.

Non-toxic & Organic Materials We do not use any pesticides on any project without prior consent. We will read the labels carefully to be sure of content. We shall minimize the use of Roundup to control weeds. Where practicable, use organic herbicides which are derivatives of organic sources like corn gluten, citric acid, garlic, thyme and clove oils, acetic acid etc. We will try use alternative control by hand weeding, grubbing, mulching, or other organic herbicides. We will seek your opinion about specific weed control practices prior to bidding.

Plant Material We will try to choose California native and drought tolerant plant material wherever applicable and if you approve them. We shall try to obtain plants from nurseries practicing integrated pest and disease management and protect air, soil and water bodies from pollution in the process of growing plants. We will not purchase plants that are dug from the wild and natural environments.

Compost and Other Organic Materials All fertilizers used by us are 100% derivatives of non-chemical sources, i.e. “organic” fertilizers such as compost tea, super humus compost,  Gro-Power, Dr. Earth, Whitney Farms. We will avoid materials that are contaminated with significant non-degradable waste, detectable chemicals, etc. Other chemical fertilizers are acceptable if authorized prior to bidding. We will purchase organic materials from responsible sources.

SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES

Storage, Reusing, Recycling & Disposal Wherever applicable create area on site to facilitate storage of materials to be reused. Whenever possible, reuse materials such as drip tubing, lumber cutoffs, etc. Wherever applicable, leave chipped organic material on site to be used as mulch.  We shall dispose all waste materials in an approved facility.

Grading & Drainage We make provisions for erosion control when working on slopes, to reduce impact on water and air and to prevent silting of waterways. We will use appropriate grading practices, soil binding agents, erosion control fabrics, drainage systems, approved cover crops, silt fences, and other practices agreed upon in advance of bidding. We will prevent load on existing storm drains.

Water Management & Irrigation Practices We will protect all water bodies from damage.  We will provide portable toilets where other facilities are not available. We do not allow any irrigation system to over spray planted areas or to generate significant spray drift or runoff. We do not allow any irrigation within at least 6-8 feet of the trunk of any native oak tree.  We will utilize gray water wherever applicable.

Existing Soil & Plants We will retain, preserve, and reuse all top soil on site as far as possible. We protect all existing vegetation that is chosen to remain from damage, including damage to the root zone. We do not park vehicles or equipment, or store heavy materials within the root zone of trees. We locate all staging areas away from trees. We do not trench within the drip line of any mature tree without prior approval. Where necessary, we install protective fencing at the drip line of mature trees. We do not prune existing plants without prior approval.

On Site Management We minimize the use of power equipment and operate equipment within community guidelines and follow reasonable hours of operation.  We do not store hazardous materials on site. We maintain a clean site at all times during the project. We follow approved standard dust control methods during grading and dirt-moving operations. All off-road equipment are operated at slow speeds to avoid dust.

Equipment & Energy Use We use low-energy, low polluting equipment during operation. We minimize the use of diesel or gasoline-driven power equipment. We do not use any product containing volatile organic compounds (pesticides, oil-based paints, other petroleum-based products) without prior approval. Where it is not cost-prohibitive, we use electric or hand tools.

WHY LOOSE LAWNS?

• Waste of scarce resources like water, labor, chemicals, gas and fertilizers
• Noise, water, chemical pollution and injuries to health
• Water run-off, erosion, flooding & destruction of bio-diversity
• Costly and labor intensive to maintain especially in the front yards where there is no use

These are the standards which the staff and designers of Debby Evans Garden Design adhere to.

Please discuss these with myself, or your Landscape professional.

Talking with a prospective client recently, an issue came up that can frequently be confusing when installing a new landscape – how much is my project going to cost.

There is no easy way to answer the question, or any absolute formula or cost per square foot to apply that can give a perfect idea of cost. Yet, landscaping often is a big-ticket item, similar to buying a car; you would not go to the dealership not knowing if you wanted a Honda Civic or a Porsche.

Landscaping is often not too different in terms of time required, labor required, and material cost required, than some remodeling projects done in the home. You can easily spend $10-20,000 remodeling a 150 square foot bathroom; a 5000 square foot yard done with similar eye for detail is not going to be in that price range.

With that in mind, here is a simplified overview of costing, to give a general idea of what landscape projects cost.

Cost for a project is related to a variety of factors:

1- Site work: How much grading, clean-up, tear out work is involved. How hard is it to access the site and do the work? Can a Bobcat be brought in or does everything have to be done by hand?

2- Infrastructure: How much work is needed on the underlying systems- drainage, electrical, irrigation, and lighting? Are there spaces that need to be created with large retaining walls that require drainage and a lot of site work?

3- Hardscape: Usually the most expensive aspect of the project. What are the sizes and lengths of retaining walls required (typical cost $100-400+ per foot), what are the sizes and finishes of patios (concrete, brick, stone?), walkways and flatwork (typical cost $10-40 per square foot). Are there arbors, fences, or gates required?

4- Softscape: How much planting, soil prep and mulching needs to be done? Are plants going to be installed small and allowed to grow, or brought in already mature (e.g. Box Trees)?

5- Accessory features: Are lighting, water features, fire pits, or outdoor kitchens desired? What is the scale and level of detail of these items (Are you looking for the Trevi fountain in Rome or a pre-cast fountain that will fit by the back door?).

When Setting a Budget keep the following in mind:

1. Decide what benefits you are going to receive from the new landscaping.
2. Ask friends and neighbors what they spent for their landscape projects.
3. Determine if there is going to be phasing of the project and think about the total scope, detail and cost of the items associated with the project.

From a general perspective most projects that we do in the greater Sacramento area fall into the following categories (all projects pictured are in the upper half of their respective categories):

Small Landscape: $20,000-$40,000
These projects that are on small lots if landscaping both a front and back yard, or focus on a particular area such as a basic outdoor kitchen or barbecue. The design is articulated, but there are not a lot of detail items and accessory features. If those features are present, they are typically of smaller scale. If projects are more articulated at this scale it is typically because there was less site work, excavation/retaining, and infrastructure work needed.

Custom barbecue with concrete counter top, pergolas, and kitchen/barbecue appliances. Not pictured but included in this project – raised deck, stone planters, custom fire pit.

Medium Landscape: $40,000-$75,000
Typically larger lots or smaller lots/areas with more detail. There may still only be a focus on a particular part of the lot or a front or back yard. Medium sized projects tend to have more detailing of elements (e.g. Flagstone patios instead of concrete, stonewalls instead of concrete stacking blocks).

Medium project to the right included: Back yard only- Irrigation and drainage systems, flagstone border, turf (700 sq. ft.), pool, fencing, lighting package, and fencing.

Large Landscape: $75,000-$150,000
Large landscapes are usually distinguished by more detail work and accessory features of a large overall scale, usually the whole lot. Larger scale grading and infrastructure work is usually required.

Large project above included: Irrigation and drainage systems, large brick patio (1000 sq. ft.), large deck retrofit, water feature, barbecue island, perimeter fencing and deck railing, custom fireplace and seating wall, lighting package, front entrance upgrades, and linking flagstone pathway.

Custom Landscape: $150,000 and up
These custom projects are just that, custom. They tend to have a lot of handcrafted detail and more expensive materials. They also typically incorporate more elements, on a larger scale than the project cost categories above. Large-scale retaining walls and grading are often required. Plantings typically are installed with larger container sizes and box trees (the cost of large box trees can equal a small-scale project).

Custom project above included: Extensive retaining walls and engineered patio area, decorative stone veneer walls throughout, linking flagstone pathways for front and back yard, custom cedar fencing, gates and trellises, large stone patios, large lawn areas, several large box trees, drainage, irrigation and lighting systems, and well articulated planting beds.

It is important to have a well thought out plan, and a budget discussed with your designer. It is often difficult to discuss money, but the better idea you have, the more cost effective your designer and contractor can be with your budget. Without any idea of the resources you have set aside for your landscape, it is a wild guess and you will not get the very best product. It is also frustrating for all parties. A reputable, trust worthy, and professional designer wants to stay in or below your budget – but they need to know what that is! For help determining a budget, talk with your landscape designer or several designers, until you are comfortable with what your dollars can do for you.

I like to use an extensive questionnaire and plan a lengthy meeting to go over all elements of design and construction my clients are looking to achieve. The more time spent up front – the better the overall project.

We work with all budgets and collaborate with our contractors and vendors to give our clients the greatest value for their dollars. If we can help you with your project .. please let us know. Thanks for visiting Sacramento Landscape Design.

Question: Where can I find easy to access information and photos of plants?

For me, the gold standard is the Sunset Western Garden book. The resource I refer to most, however, is the on-line Fine Gardening magazine plant guide (FineGardening.com/plantguide). Need a perennial that is less than 2 feet tall, has blue flowers,  and can grow in the shade? The Fine Gardening site will give you the information and you can learn about hundreds of great plants for your garden. You may search according to your needs, or just browse in your quiet moments!

Smoke Tree bush

Drought – tolerant shrub for all seasons

I have used this beautiful small tree or bush in landscapes throughout the Sacramento area.

Recommendation:

I am often asked about gardening tools. I most often recommend the Cobra Head (www.CobraHead.com).

A weeder, cultivator, planter and transplanter – the Cobra Head is my favorite “go to” garden tool.  It is practically a universal tool and has won many awards and endorsements. If you were to purchase just one garden tool this summer, consider the Cobra Head for your gardening chores. You will use it year round! Here is a link to the video, showing the many ways the tool is used.

(http://www.cobrahead.com/video/cfm)

Question:

I need a focal plant for my garden. Something that is bright, evergreen, and easy care. Can you help me?

The plant I am recommending is for Zones 9 – 11. If you like bright colors (orange and yellow) and need a larger shrub, then I recommend the Marmalade Bush – Streptoslen jamesonii for Zones 9 – 11. The conditions that are best for this 4 ft. tall and 6 ft. wide shrub is full sun, and average to fertile soil. With nearly year-long blooming, this evergreen shrub is slow to become established, but in a year or two it kicks into full, unstoppable, riotous colors. One of the toughest shrubs; once the Marmalade Shrub becomes established it needs very little water and is very resistant to pests and diseases. If you choose this great bush, be sure to plant it where it can be enjoyed. It is a standout, WOW, sort of plant we all love!

Marmalade Bush in bloom

Remember that a focal point need not be a plant.

A unique bench, simple water feature, pathway to an intimate garden setting,

or garden art are also focal points.

Certainly, this will not appeal to everyone, but it worked beautifully for my client

and everyone has something to say about it!

A firepit is often the gathering place in a garden.

This example is from a landscape renovation in Placerville, CA.

One of my first clients wanted a meditation garden.

I studied the elements and worked with my client to achieve this place of solitude.

A focal point of not only his garden, but his values and beliefs.

Garden art and water feature – and everything my client wanted!

Question: What does Drought Tolerant really mean?

Drought Tolerant does NOT mean NO WATER! I have seen many appropriately planted and selected “drought tolerant” plants struggle or die because their owner assumed drought tolerant meant very little water in the beginning. Look to the advice of your nursery, landscape designer, or local Master Gardener group to give you water information you need for your drought tolerant plantings. Below is the basic information you need to know but it is always best to determine the particulars of each of your plantings.

“Drought Tolerant” means that the plant is able to survive during prolonged periods of dry weather – be it hot or cold. There are a few simple steps you can do to help prepare your plants and trees for periods of little water.

1) Amend your soil with an organic soil conditioner, such as compost, peat moss, or composted manure. This is not based on your soil type, these amendments will improve the structure and increase its ability to retain moisture.

2) Plant at the correct time of year for your region, which most likely will not be in the heat of summer. Planting in the fall is the best times in most of California. This reduces the water necessary to establish your plantings. Even while the top growth may be dormant (if it is not an evergreen shrub) the roots are still developing. The rewards you will receive (as well as your plant!) are a well-established, deep roots and a strong flush of spring growth.

3) Water and shrubs consistently for the first three to four weeks after they are planted; be sure they do not dry out. Water deeply once or twice as needed during the first summer your plants are in the ground. Deep but infrequent watering will encourage a deep root system, which provides a better chance of surviving prolonged periods without water.

4) Apply mulch. I always recommend at least a two inch deep layer of mulch applied once a year. It will keep the soil moist and cool, and will reduce weeds.

Before I had children, and a busy, busy life, I was one of those gardeners who could spend hours a day in my garden. Now, with teenagers, grown children and grandchildren, a business to run, teaching and my web site, I consider it a blessing to have two or three hours a week during the summer to concentrate on my garden. High-maintenance plants just don’t cut it. Trimming and pruning are things I only want to do once, maybe twice a year. I prefer to spend my precious garden time adding new plants to my garden, rearranging to create fresh plant combinations, and pulling weeds for therapy. I want all the fun stuff without the fussing. I want to share with you a few tips that I’ve come to rely on to achieve that goal.

. Plant self-sowing seeds

. Mulch, mulch, and then mulch some more

. Buy tried – and – true perennials

. Plant with winterproof containers

. Rethink your lawn

. And again, rethink your lawn

. Invest in larger plants

. Make your garden self-watering

. Select shrubs that do not need pruning

Viburnum is best left without pruning

. Lower your standards (no one will see that uneven edge, dandelions, or the plants you have not dead headed)

I would love to share more detail … but I don’t want you to fall asleep reading this article! Just let me know if you want more information on this subject or any others in this post.

That’s it for now …. time to take the pup for a walk!

]]> http://landscapesacramentodesigner.com/?feed=rss2&p=997 0 http://landscapesacramentodesigner.com/?p=929 http://landscapesacramentodesigner.com/?p=929#comments Mon, 31 May 2010 21:24:37 +0000 debby http://landscapesacramentodesigner.com/?p=929 Is this subject confusing to you? I get a lot of questions about it so I decided to write a short article to help readers who are confused. Not the most exciting subject …. but if you need the information here is a great place to get it!

Non-native plants need nutritional supplements to give them what the soil cannot. Fertilizer is not exclusively important to non-native plants, but most of the time if you are planting a native plant, since it is  “native” to your soil and climate zone, it will simply adapt to your soil.

Complete Fertilizers

Complete fertilizers include all three primary nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium); incomplete fertilizers contain only one or two. A example of a complete fertilizer is one with the NPK numbers of 5 – 10 – 5, showing that all three primary nutrients are present in the formula. Most complete fertilizers are blends of several different chemical fertilizers, and are sold under a brand name. Many are formulated for a particular use, such as citrus and azaleas.

Different formulas of complete fertilizer can be used for feeding any type of plant in any situation. They can be used for lawns, houseplants, vegetables, flowers, and trees in any type of soil or container mix. Complete fertilizers are usually in the form of pellets or granules for easy spreading.

Incomplete Fertilizers

An incomplete fertilizer supplies only one or two of the three primary nutrients. It is usually sold by its chemical name as a commodity, rather than as a branded fertilizer. Super phosphate is an example of an incomplete fertilizer. Its formula is 0 – 20 – 0, making it an excellent source of phosphorus. Incomplete fertilizer are usually used for specific purposes,  such as adding extra phosphorus for lawn seedlings (which need high levels of phosphorus for their first few weeks of life). Incomplete fertilizers are usually less expensive than complete fertilizers, and take more skill to use properly. Incomplete fertilizers are often soluble crystals that look like table salt.

Balanced Fertilizers

The term “balanced fertilizer” is frequently used in garden literature. Sometimes “complete fertilizer” is intended – a fertilizer that contains substantial portions of the three primary nutrients.

At other times, “balanced” refers to a complete fertilizer that contains approximately equal parts of the three primary nutrients, such as 5 – 5 – 5. This later recommendation doesn’t make much horticultural sense. Plants don’t use the nutrients in equal amounts; most plants use about equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium and about 1/5 as much phosphorous, but that proportion varies from plant to plant, and with different stages in a plant’s life. Also, different soils contain differing amounts of mineral nutrients. Rich clay soils may need notion more than an occasional nitrogen. In contrast, fast-draining container mixes require substantial amounts of all three primary nutrients.

Still confused?

Here are additional resources to help you with your garden’s necessary nutrients

http://www.learn2grow.com/gardeningguides/fertilizer/basics/understandingfertilizernumbers.aspx

http://gardening.about.com/od/gardenprimer/ht/fertilizerlabel.htm

Or simply Google – Understanding Garden Fertilzers

]]> http://landscapesacramentodesigner.com/?feed=rss2&p=929 0 http://landscapesacramentodesigner.com/?p=889 http://landscapesacramentodesigner.com/?p=889#comments Mon, 31 May 2010 18:16:01 +0000 debby http://landscapesacramentodesigner.com/?p=889 This was one of my first projects.

My client wanted a decorative bench to view her larger landscape.

I was referred to two artisans in the Auburn area

and selected Josiah Alder for this piece.

Colorful annuals and perennials surround the bench

and are throughout the garden.

Josiah was called in again to create this beautiful piece of art.

It is not only art but a water feature with water slowly emitted through the branches and pooling at the base.

Creeping thyme is planted outside the base and flagstone is used for pathways.

I love the colors of the Blue and Lilac flagstone (Bluestone stone).

This photo was taken from the Master Bedroom.

This is a “surprise” area in the garden and a wonderful space for an intimate and private retreat.

Smaller garden with flagstone pathways, spa with waterfall, and outdoor gas fireplace.

One of several photos just sent to me by clients in Camino, CA.

The beauty of this project was the opportunity

to create multiple areas of interest.

Leading up to large French Doors off of the Family Room

this area is beautiful and restful.

It is only one corner of a much larger landscape.

(More photos of this project are in client comments in Testimonials)

Clients don’t always see the value of lighting their landscape with drama.

This is an example of  simple front yard renovation with lighting creating a dramatic effect.

The trees stand out and the light casts off the residence as well.

This is an evolving landscape in the foothills.

Beginning about 5 years ago,

this is the newest addition to a very large landscape in Placerville, CA.

My clients just got married and expect to spend time with family at this location.

Nestled within oaks and redwoods this was the perfect site to carve out a beautiful seating wall,

fireplace, flagstone patio and steps with lots of room for many occasions.

It has been my delight to play a role in each of these landscapes.

I play a part with the installation crew, artisans, stone masons,

lighting, electrical contractors, and plumbing contractors.

Most importantly – I work WITH my clients – collaboratively to achieve their goals.

Thank you to all!

To attract birds and butterflies, and to have them help pollinate flowers, scatter seeds and help control pests, you must have adequate sources of food, shelter and water.  Flowers provide color, as well as nectar and seeds.

Trees and shrubs bear nuts, fruit and berries and offer shelter, breeding places and nesting sites for birds and butterflies. Ponds, fountains or other water elements accent the garden and provide necessary moisture and drinking sources for birds and butterflies. By combining these elements, you can attract these winged creatures to your garden.

When selecting wildlife friendly plants for your garden, look for varieties that are both prolific bloomers and have a long bloom time. Prune your plants to prevent excessive woody growth and encourage the growth of new flowers. Provide birds with food and shelter during all four seasons by planting trees and shrubs that offer seeds and fruit. Invite these lovely helpers by following these tips:

1. Hummingbirds are attracted to bright orange, red and hot pink blossoms. Their long, narrow beaks can reach the nectar of long, tubular flowers such as Balboa Sunset Trumpet Vine with its scarlet blossoms, and Gold flame Honeysuckle which has vibrant yellow and red flowers. Other good choices are Red Flowering Maple, Navajo series of Salvia, available in many colors, including bright red, rose, and salmon red.
2. Not all hummingbirds feed at the same height, so plant an array of shrub sizes and climbing vines for food sources.
3. Butterflies are attracted to yellow, orange and red. They too are seeking nectar, but their mouths, or proboscises, are much smaller, so they prefer flatter flowers they can perch on while they feed (coneflowers are the butterflies all time favorite!). Other good choices are the no-fail varieties of Buddleja or Butterfly Bush. However, since they can get too large for some gardens, consider the petite versions of each variety. Petite Indigo has a profusion of lilac-blue flowers; Petite Plum sports reddish-purple blooms and Petite Snow has pure white blossoms.
4. Lilacs are favorites of butterflies, but do not typically flower well in climates with warmer winters. The Blue Skies lilac produces huge clusters of lavender-blue flowers that do not require winter chilling. Both birds and butterflies love Coneflowers and the new Pixie Meadowbrite is a particular favorite.  Asters are great because they bloom well into fall. The new Farmington Aster has a profusion of lilac bloom clusters that will keep the birds and butterflies fed and your garden looking bright.
5. Birds will be grateful for the shelter and food found in many popular trees and shrubs. The Golden Raindrops Crabapple, Wentworth Cranberry Bush Viburnum, and Super Red Flowering Quince provide important sources of food for many birds.
6. Supply a source of water. Hummingbirds enjoy flying through a fine mist, which cools them off. Butterflies like drinking from shallow puddles. Position some large flat rocks in a sunny spot, on which butterflies can sun themselves to warm their wings. All birds need water for drinking and for bathing. Birdbaths are a simple way to provide water and add a great design element to your garden. The surface of a birdbath should be course for better footing. The sides should incline slightly to a depth of no more than three inches and the water should be changed every other day.
7. A wildlife garden has a looser more natural appearance all around. Dried flowers, spilled seeds, and fallen leaves are all a part of this natural look and home for birds, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Avoid pesticides and herbicides so you will attract beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewings.Important: Plant the tallest plant in the background and the shortest in the foreground. Tall trees in the background, medium-sized shrubs, perennials and vines in the mid-section, small shrubs and groundcovers in the foreground, or as borders.
8. Trees lend structure to the garden and provide perching, nesting and roosting sites for birds and butterflies. Trees are the dominant element in your landscape and add stately elegance and privacy. When choosing a tree consider the spread, height, and growth habits. Plant for brilliant color and fall foliage, spring blooms of fruit trees, and evergreens for winter color and protection.
9. Shrubs provide hiding places, shady nesting spots, quick cover from predators and provide a great nesting habitat for wildlife. Shrubs are useful for screens, barriers, hedges and backgrounds, and are often used as foundation plantings. Smaller shrubs complement flower borders and visually lead your eyes to larger and taller background plantings. Planting in groups makes your display more impressive. Plant in varying heights and textures to create a more visually appealing and interesting garden.
10. Perennials are non-woody plants that live at least 3 years, and are critical to supplying birds with seed and nectar. Many have foliage that dies off in winter but send up new growth the following spring.
11. Vines offer shelter and quick cover for birds, and entice them with flowers, berries, insects, shelter and nesting sites. Many vines provide a nectar drink for visiting hummingbirds. They help unify plants of varying heights and soften, or even hide, the hard lines of structures and houses. Vines add vertical interest and provide quick greenery for fences, walls and trellises.
12. Ground covers provide shelter, blossoms and berries for food, and are a key feature in any landscape by making the transition from lawns to shrubs and trees seem natural. Groundcovers are good for erosion control, are ideal for areas that are difficult to mow, and can be used to conceal fallen leaves below trees.
13. Water is a very important element in all seasons. It can be a dramatic focal point anywhere within the garden. Small ponds, fountains or birdbaths provide water and wading areas for birds. Nothing is better than a gentle flowing fall of water that is not only visually appealing but provides the homeowner with a diffusion of city noise and a place for natural wildlife.

Color is key. Cool colors – pinks, rose, purple, and lavender, blue – all convey calmness and tranquility, while warm colors, like bright yellows and reds, create drama and vibrancy. Planting warm colors in the foreground and cooler colors in the background gives the illusion of depth. Bright tubular flowers in reds, pinks, and oranges are especially attractive to hummingbirds.

In our society’s quest for all things bigger and brighter and newer, innovation rules. The traditional, the tried and tested, the old stuff, tends to get thrown mercilessly on the scrap heap of history.

This is not my world. Not my personal world. As a Landscape Designer, I work in all types of settings and    create gardens of all types. I would hardly consider myself “old fashioned”  – even Old World – but I will admit having a thing for old stuff. My dream is to live in 100-year-old farmers cottage, grow mostly heirloom vegetables, and having a growing collection of antique apple trees. For whatever reason, old stuff appeals to my sensitivities. I’m not into junk though – most of the items I welcome into my home or garden have to be either a classic in their field, useful or beautiful. That’s what works for me.

Gardening isn’t immune from this quest for the latest and greatest. Sometimes a new way of doing things is warranted, particularly if research shows that a traditional way doing something was simply an old wives’ tale. There are occasions though when innovation is glorified for its own sake. I think we need remind that in our pursuit of a healthy, productive garden, the old ways remain just as relevant to us as they were to our ancestors.

Let us start with a definition. Espalier, pronounced either “es-pah-lee-er” or “es-pah-lee-ay,” depending on how French you want to sound, is the art of training plants to grow against a wall in desired shapes. Espalier comes from the Italian word spalliera, which means “wainscot to learn the shoulder against” and literally refers to the trellis on which a plant is trained to grow.

The technique is thought to have originated with the Egyptians, but was perfected during the Middle Ages of France, where fruit trees were espaliered within walled gardens to save space, utilize radiant heat from the walls, and as with so many things French, create something that is both useful and beautiful.

Hundreds of different espalier forms have been created, but around a dozen or less are in common use. The craft has been applied mostly to fruiting trees, particularly apples and pears, but it is applicable to any tree, shrub, or vine that has flexible branches and a relatively compact growth habit. Some popular ornamentals suited to espalier include magnolias, camellias, and roses.

Grapevine espalier

In a formal setting, climbing plants are often made to follow geometric pathways. In an informal backyard, vines may be attached at somewhat more random locations and allowed to follow their natural inclinations in between.

The process can take years, depending on how quickly the plant grows. (Espaliered trees are often managed for decades.) Typically, you will need to spend an hour or so two or three times a year trimming wayward stems and shoots and encouraging your plant in the directions that please you.

The benefits of espalier are many. Certainly the most obvious is the space that espalier saves. When grafted on to a dwarfing rootstock, an apple tree can be easily be trained along a fence or driveway, taking up about as much room as a garden bench. If a bit more space is available, you could include a number of trees. A colleague of mine has an espalier that includes 15 different apple varieties with the potential to supply fruit for cooking and fresh eating December through July.

One of these trees, a ‘Lord ‘Lambourne’ is producing fruit in less than two years, which is testament to the fact that espaliered trees tend to bear a good dear earlier than standard trees. They also bear more heavily, and have a longer productive lifespan. The reason for these traits is related to sap flow. Just as a bend in a pipe slows down the flow of water, a bend in a branch slows down the flow of sap. The more horizontal the angle of a branch, the less sap flows through it, reducing the formation of vegetative buds and increasing the production of fruiting buds. As a consequence, espaliered trees produce much higher yields than standard grown fields.

Espalier contradicts the modernist adage, form follows function With an espaliered fruit tree, form and function are inseparable. By creating an espalier, you are creating not just a highly productive plant, but a living sculpture, a testimony to the interaction between gardener and tree. You might choose to grow a series of espaliers as a Belgian fence, creating a productive barrier to keep the kids either in or out, depending on your needs. And if the fence fails to perform, you could try bribing them with a piece of fruit from the tree instead.

What I like most about espalier is that it’s a gentle art, not unlike bonsai in that it takes dedication, perseverance, knowledge and patience. Espalier bucks the trend. The process of training a tree to look beautiful, and become fruitful, is the best antidote to our society’s pathological addiction to speed.

The Bio-Integral Resource Center in Berkeley, California is committed to improving our weed control (such as noted above) with a new approach referred to as IWM, or Integrated Weed Management. Modeled after IPM (Integrated Pest Management), IWM begins with identifying and monitoring the weed populations in your landscape. Next you determine the thresh hold, or the number of weeds you will allow in your garden. Once you have reached that number, you need to decide the control methods, including cultural, physical, mechanical, or least-toxic chemical controls. This system can be used effectively by homeowners themselves. Professional Landscape Designers can use IWM when planning landscapes to the benefit of the client and the larger environment. 

Design new plantings to keep weeds out

With a new landscape design, IWM practices should focus on weed prevention rather than weed control. A simple way to help your garden is to examine the container and the plant itself when purchasing them to make sure they are weed free. I can give you an example from my own garden a few months ago. In the Sacramento area of California (and I am sure there are many others across the nation) the Sacramento Tree Foundation promotes the planting of trees for greater energy efficiency. Several places in my garden need the benefit of a deciduous tree (shade and cooling of your house in the summer and the warmth of the sun heating your house in the colder months) and I selected a few trees from this organization. In every instance, the soil in the black, plastic containers had not only the beginnings of a wonderful tree, but several types of weeds thriving beside the young tree. By planting these as is, even if I was to pull the weeds, I would have planted not only Birch and Redbud trees but all the weeds that came with them. Instead, I soaked the trees well before planting, and pulled out the weeds and any easily removed roots. Further, I made certain that the topsoil I was using had been properly composted at 140 – 150 degrees.  Composting at a high heat ensures that weed seeds have been killed. A little extra effort = less or no weeds from these plantings.

Suiting your plants to the cultural conditions, allows for plants that will flourish, and weeds will have no place to grow. Native plants are especially useful because they are generally well adapted to local conditions, and they complete well against weeds. You ca also use groundcovers, trees, and shrubs to shade the ground so weeds will not grow beneath them. Underplant newly planted trees and shrubs with  fast growing annuals like sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) and flaxes (Linum spp.) to crowd out weeds. In climates where plants depend on watering, use drip irrigation to deliver water only to your ornamentals and not to the weeds. Give allelopathic plants, like sunflowers, manzanita, and some sages, which secrete toxins that can suppress the growth of other plants (Fine Gardening: Say Good-by to Weed Worries).

Photos below and to the left represent some of the flaxes used in weed regulated gardens.

Synthetic mulches are also effective tools for suppressing weeds. The best time to install plastic mulches or landscape fabrics is when you are installing a new bed. I personally stay away from the black plastic sheeting (polyethylene) but I do like spunbound, woven, or nonwoven landscape fabrics (polypropylene or polyester). I have been told that the black plastic suppresses weeds better, but the landscape fabrics last longer, allow water to drain through, and are sold in sheets of convenient sizes that I find easier to use. In fact, some fabrics are pre-cut into “tree circles” that provide a circular weed-free area beneath trees. All these synthetic mulches are degraded by sunlight and should be covered with a 2-inch layer of organic mulch (bark of your choice – with the exception of black bark which leaches into the soil and water table) or some sand or gravel, to protect them. Installed correctly they can last from 5 to 10 years;  sometimes even longer.

In most cases I have found great success using organic mulches and I encourage my clients and readers to use these mulches, too.If only in the beginning of your own person IWM program, there are a great variety of mulches available to you. Coarse mulches, like large bark chips, should be used in areas of high rainfall, because they allow water to drain quickly. Water that sits with a mulch is a breeding ground for disease. Deep mulches are more effective in controlling weeds than shallow ones. Most people apply less than what is necessary to give the best coverage and weed control. As a rule, organic mulches should be 2 to 4 inches deep, and they should not come in direct contact with the trunks of trees or the crowns of plants.

Note: There is more information regarding organic bark in the article titled “Mulches in the Landscape”.

Creating a Weed Map … Identify problem areas

I am very thankful to Kim Jaeckel for the illustration below. It is inserted into this article to give the reader a visual of a weed map. If you are working with a Landscape Designer, ask them for a copy any base plan, site plan, blue print, etc. that reflects your property, with an accurate scale (usually 1/8″ = 1 foot, 1/4″ = 1 foot, or from the builders original plans, 1″ = 10 feet). If you are not working with a designer, you can look through your paperwork saved with the purchase of your home, any home improvement/addition that you had a plan drawn for, or you can simply measure your property itself. Best to have your home place accurately within the larger landscape, the perimeters of your home, any hardscapes, and any significant trees or plantings. From that you can begin identifying your weeds on the way to determining your tolerance for weeds.

Common Dandelion

Once your new or renovated landscape is installed, or when you inherit a landscape, you will begin to monitor for weeds and set wee tolerance thresholds. With your weed map in hand, you will move through your garden identifying areas with weeds. Your tolerance for these weeds will determine to what degree you will, using IWM principals, you can live harmoniously with the weeds in your garden.

Crabgrass ..... at least it stays green!

Map your garden and observing where and to what intensity your weed or weeds are growing, begin to identify the types of weeds that you have. Not long ago, I did my very best to rid our side yard of all the weeds and the little bit of grass that remained. My plan was to prep the soil, bring in the amendments, and install the landscape I had developed per plan. As the weeds and grass continued to die off, my husband grew more upset. To him it was better to have an area full of green weeds and some grass than nothing at all. Well I certainly agreed, but I had a plan and it would be fulfilled.

Fall came and with it one of the best times for planting. At least the trees. At least the prep of the soil and maybe just a seeding rather than sod. You know where this is going ….. no prep, no sod, no trees, no landscape. We had a lot of rain this year and between the rain, the mud, a new puppy ….. just life …. we just mowed down all the weeds and hope to at least improve the area.

Most important … in terms of IWM, we know our tolerance threshold  and have identified ALL the weeds. Some will come back, and we have decided they are o.k. The others … well we will deal with them. We have decided that some of our weeds are aesthetically pleasing an non aggressive growers, so we will tolerate them at certain numbers. Other weeds may be useful herbs or can be a refuge for beneficial insects, since they provide them with pollen, nectar, prey, or r alternate hosts. But beware; some weeds like sedges (Cyperus spp.) or Canaa thistle (Cirsium arvense), should be removed at once or they may quickly take over your garden.

Narrow leaf plantain "Plantago lanceolata'

A map like the one below will help you determine the places in your garden that will take your energies and will need attention.  For example, an area overrun with annual weeds like shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris) and common chickweed (Stellaria media) should be treated before they can set seeds. Perennial weeds, like ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea), are weakest about two weeks after emergence, when food stored in the roots has been exhausted, so this is a good time to treat them.

A Landscape Designer’s plan, prior to final concepts, is great to use as your weed map as well. The drainage, soil conditions, acidity level and fertility of the soil may (depending on the designer and how detailed they are) be on your site plan or one of the first drawings your designer draws for you. Certain weeds will flourish under certain cultural conditions, so the presence, or health of a specific weed will give you clues about the general health of your soil.   If you see the presence of spurge (Euphorbia spp.), black medic (Medicago lupulina) or crabgrasses (Digitaria spp.) can mean that the site is too dry and most likely significantly compacted. Moneyworts (Lysimachia spp.) and nimbiewill (Muhlenbergia screber) are indicators of chronically wet conditions. Broadleaf plaintain (Plantago major) and goosegrass (Eleusine indica) also inicate compacted soil. Red sorrel (Rumex acetosella) shows up in acidic soil, and sites low in nitrogen lead to clovers (Trifolium repens), bird’s-foot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus), and black medic. When signature weeds appear on your map, yu ca try to get rid of them by aerating or cultivating, working compost into your soil and bring slow-release fertilizer into the soil. If acidic soil is your issue, you can treat it with lime.

This is the first of several articles coming to our readers regarding Integrated Web Management and Organic Gardening. Next we will cover the tools that will best serve you in dealing with weeds. I hope you come back .. soon!

Courtesy of Kim Jaeckel/Fine Gardening

You can beat the upcoming summer heat with some advance planning. Last summer you promised yourself that a bedraggled garden of scorched foliage and crispy blooms would NOT be your future! Here are a few tips to help you achieve your goal and maintain a garden throughout the summer.

Mulch … mulch …. mulch.  Hopefully you did this over the fall and winter, but it is not too late to mulch your spring garden thoroughly in anticipation of the summer heat. Using plants in our gardens, suited for our Mediterranean climate  (Sacramento region and many others throughout the country) will certainly go a long way.

Heat and drought tolerant perennials will always work well in our Folsom, El Dorado Hills, Roseville, Rocklin, Sacramento, Fair Oaks and Orangevale gardens. Southern California gardeners as well, will benefit from the following suggestions.

Not surprisingly, lavenders top the list for heat tolerance. A favorite of mine is Lavandula ‘Goodwin Creek Grey’ which has deep violet-blue flowers that appear in spring and go all the way into late fall.  They are a bit larger than most lavenders and has very dense foliage. ‘Munstead‘ is an English lavender that has a very long bloom period, is a heat lover and makes a wonderful low hedge. Another particularly good heat-loving lavender is one of the Spanish ones – Lavandula stoechas ‘Otto Quast’ which tends to be very long-lived.

Teucrium chamaedrys or Germander  is a tough plant that holds up well in hot weather. At our former home in El Dorado Hills I had Germander where it got full sun exposure all day and now flourishes with very sporadic water;  in fact, it cannot tolerate wet soil.

Origanum laevigatum ‘Hopley’s’ is an oregano that bears dense heads of purple-pink flowers and self-sows freely. It’s a native of Turkey, so that should speak volumes for its ability to survive our summer heat. Another oregano that does well is the ‘Betty Rollins’ cultivar which spreads in a low-growing mat to make a wonderful groundcover. The photo below reflects ‘Hopley’s’ oregano accompanied by Blue Oatgrass, ‘Corbett’s Red Heather’, New York Aster, ‘Paigei hebe’, Euphorbia, Artemesia, and ‘Vera Jamson Sedum’.

Phlomis fruticosa, commonly known as Jerusalem Sage, is another Mediterranean native that is an easy perennial shrub to grow. It grows about 4′ tall and wide and has deep golden yellow flowers that appear in ball-shaped whorls. This perennial looks wonderful when paired with lavenders.

Nepeta x faassenii, or Catmint, is a low-growing, bushy perennial that can be mowed down to the ground periodically to keep it looking good. It makes a great border or edging plant.

One of the salvias – Salvia officinalis ‘Berggarten’ – is a particularly good choice for hot, dry climates. It is more compact, has denser growth and tends to be longer-lived than some of the other salvias.

If you like ornamental grasses, Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ is a true workhorse where summers are hot and dry. It is a sturdy, clumping-type grass with feathery, buff-colored flower plumes that persist into winter. A great choice for mass plantings.

These are just a very few examples of drought and heat tolerant perennials you can plant keep looking good all summer long. The plants listed above are only watered every 14 days (once established), even during the hottest periods. A plant is considered established after about two growing seasons. At that point you can cut back on watering. July and August are not the best times for planting, but if you can’t wait until the cooler days of fall, do your planting in the early morning hours when the heat is not so intense. You will have to baby them more than if you waited until fall, but by next summer, they will have enough of a head start to perform well.

In the Sacramento area, the free Master Gardener groups provide classes for gardeners. If you need more information about these groups, including contact information, just let me know!

I wish you a great beginning of spring and the many opportunities you will have to “play” in your garden! And to my fellow designers … use these heat and drought tolerant plantings in your clients landscapes and you will continue to receive compliments, season after season.

This spring new and many first time gardeners hit their knees and planted vegetable and herb gardens.  A recent survey conducted by the National Gardening Association confirms that vegetable gardening in the United States is on the rise.

Officials with the organization say they expect 7 million more kitchen gardens in 2009, up 19 percent from 2008. This anticipated increase is nearly double the 10 percent growth in vegetable gardening activity from 2007 to 2008 as more people seek to grow their own food.

This really doesn’t surprise me. It’s just a matter of more Americans recognizing the benefits of growing their own produce. They appreciate the improved quality, taste and, in times like these, the savings on their grocery bill. The movement is unquestionably having an impact on the gardening industry.

Officials with the National Gardening Association say consumers spent $2.5 billion in 2008 to purchase seeds, plants, fertilizer, tools and other gardening supplies to grow their own food. According to NGA estimates, even a modest, well-maintained vegetable garden yields a $500 average return per garden when considering a typical gardener’s investment and the retail price of produce.

The economy is one of the leading factors driving Americans into their backyards to grow fresh fruits and vegetables. “As in previous recessions, we’ve seen increased participation in and spending on food gardening as people look for ways to economize,” explains Bruce Butterfield, research director for the NGA. “That said, these results suggest the interest in food gardening may continue to increase, even after the economy improves.”

Highlights from the survey include:

# 43 million U.S. households plan to grow their own fruits, vegetables, herbs and berries in 2009

# 11 percent of households already active in food gardening plan to increase both the amount and variety of vegetables they will grow in 2009; 10 percent also said they will spend more time gardening this year.

Among the other reasons respondents gave as to why their households are growing their own food:

# 58 percent said for better-tasting food

# 54 percent said to save money on food bills

# 51 percent said for better quality food

# 48 percent said to grow food they know is safe

Look for upcoming articles regarding raised beds.